The New Wave of Mexican Cuisine in Denver (and the Top 3 Restaurant Openings of 2024)

As the year ends and I look back on 2024 in Denver, I can easily list a handful of what I think to be the best new restaurants in Denver. What struck me when I sat down to think and write about it, though, is that my top 3 from this last year are all Mexican — specifically, new upscale Mexican restaurants focused on elevating traditional ancestral ingredients and cooking methods.

It’s neither a secret nor a topic of debate that the hottest new trend that has taken the Denver food scene by storm in the last couple of years is the explosion of refined, authentic Mexican cuisine. Even outside of South Federal, Denver has always loved itself some tacos and margaritas, with a long list of successful eateries demonstrating that — from La Calle to Machete. We’ve recently seen a significant evolution beyond just tacos and margaritas, though. Where in years past, I would point visitors to a long-time institution like La Loma for a taste of what I considered evolved Mexican flavors at the center of the Colorado dining scene (complete with unique local dishes like their mouthwatering pork green chile) — today, there are at least half a dozen new Mexican restaurants that come to mind first.

So what’s changed? You can’t talk about the evolution Mexican cuisine in Denver without talking about 6-time James Beard nominated Chef Dana Rodriguez, who opened Work & Class in Denver way back in 2014. Originally from Chihuahua, she brought her distinctly Mexican roots to the vibrant flavors behind so many of its dishes (although the restaurant itself isn’t specifically Mexican). While Dana has has opened many other concepts in Denver since then — form Super Mega Bien to Carne — my favorite was actually her most Mexican one, Cantina Loca, which opened in Highlands in 2022 and sadly closed this last year. And despite the closing of Cantina Loca, I think 2022 is the year when things really started to change for Mexican cuisine in Denver.

The year 2022 was the year that Lucina Eatery & Bar opened in Park Hill — a James-Beard-recognized Latin concept from Chefs Erasmo (“Ras”) Casiano and Diego Coconati that brought traditional Mexican food preparation methods like maize nixtamalization to the front of the conversation. It was also the year we saw two super-popular Mexican food trucks get their start, Kike’s Red Tacos from the González family and Luchador from Chef Zuri Resendiz — both of which recently opened successful permanent locations in Highlands and Whittier, respectively. I’m not sure most of my friends even knew what birria was until Kike’s popularized it among the general Denver public.

Things really kicked off with the opening of Alma Fonda Fina in late 2023 by the brilliant Chef Johnny Curiel and his wife and partner, Kasie Curiel. Within a year of opening, Alma earned a coveted Michelin star and was named one of the top new restaurants in America by Esquire — quickly skyrocketing Johnny (and by extension, Denver) into the top echelons of the food world. Within a year of Alma’s opening, we’ve seen the opening of their second concept, Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, as well as a third next door to the original, Mezcaleria Alma, which is equally (if not more) impressive. This is also the year we saw the debut of Xiquita in Uptown Denver — a standout concept from the team behind Lucina and Chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez that pays homage to ancient Mexican traditions. Their mole madre is actually my favorite mole in town. Add to the conversation hip new hostspots like La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal (which has a Bib Gourmand mention) — and you’ve got quite the vibrant Mexican dining scene defining Colorado cuisine today.

So with that, here are what I think were the top 3 restaurant openings in Denver in 2024, which have all been mentioned above.

Xiquita – Aug 2024

500 E 19th Ave, Denver (Uptown)

Xiquita (pronounced “Chiquita”) is a Mexico City concept that opened at the start of August 2024 in Denver’s Uptown neighborhood — and has been one of my personal favorite restaurants ever since (also recognized by Bon Appétit as one of the top U.S. openings of 2024). It comes from the James-Beard-recognized team behind Lucina Eatery & Bar in Park Hill, Chefs Erasmo (“Ras”) Casiano and Diego Coconati — with the addition of talented Chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez, a Mexico City native. Xiquita celebrates and elevates ancient Mesoamerican ingredients such as corn, squash, and beans — as well as the traditional process of “nixtamalization” (a way of preparing maize by soaking dried kerned in an alkaline solution before rinsing them and milling them into masa, which can then be made into tortillas, tamales, and so much more). You can actually see the process on display behind a glass wall in the middle of the restaurant. For the chefs of Xiquita, the goal is to tell “stories of resilience, culture, and flavor” with every bite — and they do it well, while adding a beautiful level of sophistication to all their dishes. My personal favorites here? The Tamal Oaxaqueno, because the mole madre here is my absolute favorite mole I’ve had in Denver — a must-try for any connoisseur of Mexican food. The Sope with with beef tongue barbacoa is also a personal favorite — covered with tender, decadent meat that absolutely melts in your mouth. For fish lovers, get the Ceviche/Tiradito/Aguachile appetizer with the fish of the day — it never disappoints. And the Nieve de Xoconostle is a surprising, delightful dessert of sour prickly pear sorbet and aloe balls that I will never forget.

Luchador Tacos & More – Aug 2024

2030 E 28th Ave, Denver (Whittier)

Luchador Tacos & More is an evolution of the popular food truck that Mexico-raised Chopped champion Chef Zuri Resendiz opened in Denver in 2022. You may remember Chef Resendiz from Panzano and Cattivella when he worked under Elise Wiggins there — and he brings that level of sophistication to the Mexican dishes at his brick-and-mortar restaurant he opened in Whittier this last August. The name honors his father, who was a luchador in the 90s, and his family and personal history permeate every bite at the restaurant — including the Peruvian dishes influenced by his wife, who hails from there. A surprise favorite of mine was the Wild Mushrooms Crispy Polenta vegetarian starter — and less surprising was the excellence of the elevated Rib Eye and and Pulpo al Pastor tacos. I have not tried — but intend to on my next visit — the Birria Ramen and the Beef Ossobuco served over mole verde with roasted nopalitos. Both sound unique, creative, and mouthwatering.

Mezcaleria Alma – Nov 2024

2550 15th St. Denver (LoHi)

Mezcaleria Alma opened in November of 2024 next door to Alma Fonda Fina in LoHi, and it comes from the same brilliant restauranteur couple — Chef Johnny Curiel and his wife and partner, Kasie Curiel. They opened Alma just a year earlier in November of 2023, and it quickly became my favorite new restaurant in Denver, but the Mezcaleria may just be my new favorite. Where Alma is elegant and bright and airy — Mezcaleria Alma next door is intimate and moody and a perfect delivery of the “love letter to Mexico City” that it professes to be. Rows of unique must-try mezcals and sotols line the shelves, the cocktail program is exceptional (as is the bar staff), and the dishes are just as creative and well-curated as the ones at Alma — but somewhat more decadent here — covered in uni, smothered in mole, or topped with egg yolk and truffles. One of the highlights is the dry-aged Hawaiian kanpachi and toro, visible in the huge fish locker displayed on one of the walls, so definitely give the Ceviche de Kanpachi and Tostada de Toro a try. As far as cocktails go, the Corn Sour is a genius concoction of Vago Elote mezcal, Nixta corn liqueur, Abasolo corn whiskey, Siglo Cero Pox, heirloom corn, and tortilla salt. And for the sotol/mezcal connoisseurs, the Flor del Desierto Rattle Sotol is a must try.