The New Wave of Mexican Cuisine in Denver (and the Top 3 Restaurant Openings of 2024)

Denver’s culinary landscape experienced a remarkable transformation in 2024, with upscale Mexican cuisine taking center stage. This evolution is marked by the emergence of restaurants that honor traditional Mesoamerican ingredients and ancestral cooking methods, while elevating the dining experience.

Denverites have always been big fans of tacos and margaritas, with a long list of successful eateries demonstrating that — from La Calle to Machete. We’ve recently seen a significant evolution beyond just tacos and margaritas, though. Where in years past, I would point visitors to a long-time institution like La Loma for a taste of what I considered evolved Mexican flavors at the center of the Colorado dining scene (complete with unique local dishes like their mouthwatering pork green chile) — today, there are at least half a dozen new Mexican restaurants that come to mind first.

So what’s changed? You can’t talk about the evolution Mexican cuisine in Denver without talking about 6-time James Beard nominated Chef Dana Rodriguez, who opened Work & Class in Denver way back in 2014. Originally from Chihuahua, she brought her distinctly Mexican roots to the vibrant flavors behind so many of its dishes (although the restaurant itself isn’t specifically Mexican). While Dana has has opened many other concepts in Denver since then — form Super Mega Bien to Carne — my favorite was actually her most Mexican one, Cantina Loca, which opened in Highlands in 2022 and sadly closed this last year. And despite the closing of Cantina Loca, I think 2022 is the year when things really started to change for Mexican cuisine in Denver.

The year 2022 was the year that Lucina Eatery & Bar opened in Park Hill — a James-Beard-recognized Latin concept from Chefs Erasmo (“Ras”) Casiano and Diego Coconati that brought traditional Mexican food preparation methods like maize nixtamalization to the front of the conversation. It was also the year we saw two super-popular Mexican food trucks get their start, Kike’s Red Tacos from the González family and Luchador from Chef Zuri Resendiz — both of which recently opened successful permanent locations in Highlands and Whittier, respectively. I’m not sure most of my friends even knew what birria was until Kike’s popularized it among the general Denver public.

Things really kicked off with the opening of Alma Fonda Fina in late 2023 by the brilliant Chef Johnny Curiel and his wife and partner, Kasie Curiel. Within a year of opening, Alma earned a coveted Michelin star and was named one of the top new restaurants in America by Esquire — quickly skyrocketing Johnny (and by extension, Denver) into the top echelons of the food world. Within a year of Alma’s opening, we’ve seen the opening of their second concept, Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, as well as a third next door to the original, Mezcaleria Alma, which is equally (if not more) impressive. This is also the year we saw the debut of Xiquita in Uptown Denver — a standout concept from the team behind Lucina and Chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez that pays homage to ancient Mexican traditions. Their mole madre is actually my favorite mole in town. Add to the conversation hip new hostspots like La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal (which has a Bib Gourmand mention) — and you’ve got quite the vibrant Mexican dining scene defining Colorado cuisine today.

So with that, here are the top three (Mexican) restaurant openings of 2024 that I think have significantly contributed to this vibrant scene. These establishments exemplify Denver’s growing appreciation for authentic and innovative Mexican dining experiences, each contributing uniquely to the city’s gastronomic tapestry.

Xiquita – Aug 2024

500 E 19th Ave, Denver (Uptown)

Pronounced “Chiquita,” Xiquita brings the essence of Mexico City to Denver’s Uptown neighborhood. Launched by the acclaimed team behind Lucina Eatery & Bar — Chefs Erasmo “Ras” Casiano and Diego Coconati — along with Mexico City native Chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez, Xiquita pays homage to ancient Mexican culinary traditions. The restaurant’s commitment to authenticity and innovation has garnered national attention, earning recognition from Bon Appétit as one of the top U.S. openings of 2024. The menu emphasizes the “Three Sisters” crops: corn, beans, and squash, foundational to Indigenous Mesoamerican agriculture. It also focuses on the process of “nixtamalization” — a way of preparing maize by soaking dried kerned in an alkaline solution before rinsing them and milling them into masa, which can then be made into tortillas, tamales, and so much more. You can actually see the process on display behind a glass wall in the middle of the restaurant. My personal favorites here? The Tamal Oaxaqueno (with the best mole madre in town), the Sope topped with the most tender beef tongue barbacoa, and the vibrant fresh fish appetizer (which can be a ceviche, tiradito, or aguachile). Don’t skip the Nieve de Xoconostle for dessert either — it’s a surprisingly delightful mix of sour prickly pear sorbet and aloe balls.

Luchador Tacos & More – Aug 2024

2030 E 28th Ave, Denver (Whittier)

Transitioning from a popular food truck to a brick-and-mortar location, Chef Zuri Resendiz’s Luchador Taco & More infuses Denver’s Whittier neighborhood with creative Mexican fare. You may remember Chef Resendiz from Panzano and Cattivella when he worked under Elise Wiggins there — and he brings that level of sophistication to the Mexican dishes at his brick-and-mortar location. The restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere, adorned with lucha libre-inspired décor (an homage to Chef Zuri’s father, who was a luchador in the 90s) reflects its energetic culinary offerings. Diners can indulge in inventive dishes such as al pastor tacos featuring octopus in place of traditional pork, and shared small plates like roasted mushroom medley atop creamy polenta. Luchador’s playful yet refined approach has quickly made it a favorite among locals seeking a fresh take on Mexican cuisine. The Birria Ramen is a neighborhood favorite I need to come back for!

Mezcaleria Alma – Nov 2024

2550 15th St. Denver (LoHi)

Mezcaleria Alma opened in November of 2024 next door to Alma Fonda Fina in LoHi, and it comes from the same brilliant restauranteur couple — Chef Johnny Curiel and his wife and partner, Kasie Curiel. They opened Alma just a year earlier in November of 2023, and it skyrocketed to Denver fame when it received a Michelin star less than a year later. Mezcaleria Alma is a fantastic expansion of their culinary footprint in Denver. Where Alma is elegant and bright and airy — Mezcaleria Alma next door is intimate and moody and a perfect delivery of the “love letter to Mexico City” that it professes to be. Rows of unique must-try mezcals and sotols line the shelves, the cocktail program is exceptional (as is the bar staff), and the dishes are just as creative and well-curated as the ones at Alma — but somewhat more decadent here — covered in uni, smothered in mole, or topped with egg yolk and truffles. One of the highlights is the dry-aged Hawaiian kanpachi and toro, visible in the huge fish locker displayed on one of the walls, so definitely give the Ceviche de Kanpachi and Tostada de Toro a try. As far as cocktails go, the Corn Sour is a genius concoction of Vago Elote mezcal, Nixta corn liqueur, Abasolo corn whiskey, Siglo Cero Pox, heirloom corn, and tortilla salt. And for the sotol/mezcal connoisseurs, the Flor del Desierto Rattle Sotol is a must try.