The New Wave of Mexican Cuisine in Denver (and the Top 3 Restaurant Openings of 2024)
As the year ends and I look back on 2024 in Denver, I can easily list a handful of what I think to be the best new restaurants in Denver. What struck me when I sat down to think and write about it, though, is that my top 3 from this last year are all Mexican — specifically, new upscale Mexican restaurants focused on elevating traditional ancestral ingredients and cooking methods.
It’s neither a secret nor a topic of debate that the hottest new trend that has taken the Denver food scene by storm in the last couple of years is the explosion of refined, authentic Mexican cuisine. Even outside of South Federal, Denver has always loved itself some tacos and margaritas, with a long list of successful eateries demonstrating that — from La Calle to Machete. We’ve recently seen a significant evolution beyond just tacos and margaritas, though. Where in years past, I would point visitors to a long-time institution like La Loma for a taste of what I considered evolved Mexican flavors at the center of the Colorado dining scene (complete with unique local dishes like their mouthwatering pork green chile) — today, there are at least half a dozen new Mexican restaurants that come to mind first.
So what’s changed? You can’t talk about the evolution Mexican cuisine in Denver without talking about 6-time James Beard nominated Chef Dana Rodriguez, who opened Work & Class in Denver way back in 2014. Originally from Chihuahua, she brought her distinctly Mexican roots to the vibrant flavors behind so many of its dishes (although the restaurant itself isn’t specifically Mexican). While Dana has has opened many other concepts in Denver since then — form Super Mega Bien to Carne — my favorite was actually her most Mexican one, Cantina Loca, which opened in Highlands in 2022 and sadly closed this last year. And despite the closing of Cantina Loca, I think 2022 is the year when things really started to change for Mexican cuisine in Denver.
The year 2022 was the year that Lucina Eatery & Bar opened in Park Hill — a James-Beard-recognized Latin concept from Chefs Erasmo (“Ras”) Casiano and Diego Coconati that brought traditional Mexican food preparation methods like maize nixtamalization to the front of the conversation. It was also the year we saw two super-popular Mexican food trucks get their start, Kike’s Red Tacos from the González family and Luchador from Chef Zuri Resendiz — both of which recently opened successful permanent locations in Highlands and Whittier, respectively. I’m not sure most of my friends even knew what birria was until Kike’s popularized it among the general Denver public.
Things really kicked off with the opening of Alma Fonda Fina in late 2023 by the brilliant Chef Johnny Curiel and his wife and partner, Kasie Curiel. Within a year of opening, Alma earned a coveted Michelin star and was named one of the top new restaurants in America by Esquire — quickly skyrocketing Johnny (and by extension, Denver) into the top echelons of the food world. Within a year of Alma’s opening, we’ve seen the opening of their second concept, Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, as well as a third next door to the original, Mezcaleria Alma, which is equally (if not more) impressive. This is also the year we saw the debut of Xiquita in Uptown Denver — a standout concept from the team behind Lucina and Chef Rene Gonzalez Mendez that pays homage to ancient Mexican traditions. Their mole madre is actually my favorite mole in town. Add to the conversation hip new hostspots like La Diabla Pozole y Mezcal (which has a Bib Gourmand mention) — and you’ve got quite the vibrant Mexican dining scene defining Colorado cuisine today.
So with that, here are what I think were the top 3 restaurant openings in Denver in 2024, which have all been mentioned above.